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Dudley's Way of building scale model's

Welcome back to another blog by Daniel Dudley who is Dudley's Scale Model Car's, I am today sharing the way I built my 1/24 scale Honda Garson GT by Aoshima, This kit will be up for sala soon so I am building it straight out of the box, I am going to have 3 colours on this build, This kit was built for a build-off Competition for Kent Model's a place I get models from.

I am not the best scale model builder out there and you will never hear me saying that, because everybody will always learn new skill's thought life.

Here is the unboxing part of the blog

I have also done a video on my channel.



The box is a simple box neat tidy


On this kit I didn't have to do a lot of sanding down, The places you will need to sand down is after you cut them off the spocket. What I do on all of my models is cut the parts off while I am working like if I am working on the body I cut all the body parts off first.


The decals are good and look simple, Window stickers was easy to but on. The under nof the car is ok. The body of the car is good. The bad thing is don't cut off the back spocket before you have done if you are not careful it can bend, But thats the build not the brand.



At the start of all my models I do this and with all of the parts but I work in steps, Like I do the body of the car first then find and cut out the body parts then inside, then under the car, and so on but thats me. I do it because one time I did not I got myself into a mess and never got the model done, to stop that I do this way. I started with the body/shell parts of the car and cut out all the parts needed to build the body, I sanded all the parts first with a sanding stick using 180, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 2000 , and 8000 This is to sand down the place where it was connected to spocket and even if there is nothing there I still sand it down.

I sand it down with a 180 so most of the hard work has been done and the left has gone then the 400 to 2000 is to just to smooth it out and the 3000 is to make it very smooth to prime.

After doing the shell of the car parts, Get the main shell and look around it to see if I needs to be sands down with the sanding sticks, The place I look at is the windows, under the body like the side, front and back, and Using any colour you want, To mark out the body panel lines from when they build it, They need somewhere to put it together but it's easy to get wipe off, All brand and models have one, But after you have found the panel lines with a stratycie, I like to use 180 to 3000 sanding stick's to do this, Also trying to keep the stape of the body of the car some place's it's hard I just take my time and do it, This part is best to take your time with and if it is needed take 1 or 2 days on it, I did do a model which I not do that step and when I primed it the steam line's showed up more and when I painted it showed up even more so that's why I do it.

After doing all the dry sanding down and looking over the part's and body for the last time, I get some sanding spons and some water using 180, 400, 600, 1000, 1500 and 3000, Then starting sand down the part's going into the gap's and everything, Then when you got to 3000 on the parts go to the main body and do the same.

I know it's over kill, but I think if I do this this will help the primer to stick better I don't know, But more work I but into this part the model most of the time comes out better. Then get a panel line scriping to do all the panel line's with, If I go over and scrips the place's I did I go over them with a 180 till it's gone then using 800 the to get it done I use 3000. I have tryed filler to fill the scratches, even glue, When I used them it seems like I never can get it smooth and flat afterwards, and it can take up to 5 day's to dry or longer, but doing this way seems to work and works for me, and not take long. It's also easy.


After sanding down, I like to test fit the part's, So I can see and know which parts going to be hard to fit and so I know where to put them and how they will fit, I also keep them built so I can prime them get a first coat level of primer.

It can go by models so sometimes I use insulation tape, But most of the time I use cheap masking tape, I keep it build till the last time I sand after first coat of primer.

Then I did the same for the inside, Under and the wheel's. Them I was ready for cleaning the model and priming.




After sanding and test fitting the model, I gone to the sink and got some hot shopy water, Then started with the rough side of the sponge with part cleaned it all then left it is then left in the water to clean, then took all the taped part's off then cleaned it with the soft side of the sponge with rough side of the sponge then cleaned it then left it in water to clean then cleaned the small part's be careful don't lose the small part's, Then get a box with lid and some kitchen roll to but on bottom and sides then put the parts and body in the box and do the same with the other part's like the under, inside, I then left it over night, Then take it out of box then using a very fine hand in my paint booth spray when I started to but my primer coats on.


Before priming it I put all the parts back together with masking tape.

When I prime I work on the case if I need more coat's I can but most of the time I only do two coats of primer, I do one coat of primer then let it dry over night then sand it down with a wet 3000 then the last coat of primer leave it for 2 day's to dry then using wet sand it then leave it for 1 day this will allow the primer to dry, and sanding it down will make the paint stick and make it smooth too.


Then I did the same for the other part's like the inside, and under the car's, But using black primer and only one coat.





I used cheap and thick masking tape using a hobby knife cut around the sides on the masking tape then took it off then but it on the felt then cut it out then placed it in the boot and then did the same for the main car. Doing it like this it is less messy.



I didn't have to but I wanted to ass color to the door,


The dash



Scratch under car

I got a hobby knife and put some scratch's on the front and back to give it a effect it scrached on the cover when parked, and used 180 dry sand paper to make it look low and going over a speed bump has scratched under the car.

Added part's


Wanted the car look like it's add part's added to it and added a weathing the under car.


My goal for the wheels was to try and make them look used and like its been on a long drive.


I started to build and glue all the part's together for the Interion and Under Section. left it for a day to dry.

Weathed in side

The next day I tryed to make the interior to look like a everyday car and the owner had it for a long time but he looks after it.


The side here, I worked on the brakes and wanted them looking used,

Inside Back door

The back door with a bit of chrome, I used Molotow Liquid Chrome for my first time, It worked out great,

Small part's

Using the Molotow Chrome I did the arms to add chrome.

Back light

I used Tamiya clear red for the back light.


If I counted but the part's for the body or inside I but the part's in the box done and ready to be build on the model when I can, Now I can but all my time into the painting of the body/sell.



After some day's to allow the primer to dry, I got the body of the car and got all the part's what is ready to be glue down, Then with the part's I have to glue inside part's on and the light's. After I have glued all the part's needed I left it for a bit, Then where the glue shound be I sanded down with a wet 3000 then left it for a bit, If I needed to i added more glue but I didn't so left it to set for 2 day's, I know it's over kill but I feel it help's and I am in a cold room so setting can take longer, and on the day it was raining and cold, So it too longer, If it was hot it would of set faster and it wont take 2 day's.



I was on social media and I see some one use gold for the undercoat then used a light color to make a new light color and it came out nice, So I gone for silver then Clear orange and I am going to add a line of Metallic orange then to get it done I am going with Pearl Clear.

How I started is getting silver did the first coat then with a wet 3000 lightly sand down then leave for 24hr then do a other coat, If it look's ok don't sand down or if it dose look bad sand down again and do the say thing over then hope it's ok then go to clear orange and do the same, After you have done the last coat of clear orange leave it for 4 day's.

After 4 day's get the matallic orange and some masking tape, Then I masked off the line I wanted and where I and wanted it, Then lightly spraid the paint working up the layers to heavey layer, This is so the paint wont go thought the masking tape and go on the paint you don't what it, I got all the masking tape off after the last layer of the paint.

Then after 4 day's so all the paint can dry, Then I got my first layer down and I used pearl clear, What I do is the same as the paint. I do this 4 or more time's. Then I leave it for 3 day's.


At this pount it's all done and now I am on the hard part, I might be over thinking this part but I do feel it's hard work and more work then the other step's.

I had to be very cavel and with out braking or scratching the paint, I started to but the window's inside and the inside part's together, Then got the under of the car what has got the inside build on already, Then once again try and not scratch anything or brake then but the body together the back window was the hard part of this part, Then I had to do the boot door did that easy be cavel and not get any glue on the paint job, Then I but the arm's on. Than it's done, Do a bit of clean up then take photo's for socal media and my shop. Everything sold on the ebay shop will go back into DSMC, Or if you want you can become a Patreon for £3 a month, The money will go back to model's.

I have also got a playlist on youtube showing you my way of building model's

Thank you you for reading

Daniel Dudley

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