Tamiya - Mercedes-Benz 300SL - FULL BUILD

Welcome to Dudley's Scale model car's Blog, Here is my first full unboxing and build blog, There are photo's and video's on Youtube and Instagram, Facebook, I am going to talk about what I learned and share what is in the box.

UNBOXING

The box art is nice and simple and clean, On the box there is a photo of the model car in silver and the door's are open and black wheel's. The side of the box is the same and have other colours,

When you open up the box the shell/body has got a space just for that then the other part's are there and in an bag. The body/shell I had was a bit warped and had to get some hot water to get the shell/body right, But I might just be unlucky, in the kit it's just basic part's but everything is there.

I have been building model's for 2 year's now (posted 2022) and I found Tamiya is one of the best for manufactures of kit models, This kit is my first kit from them it was hard work before painting, I learned that bucket of hot water I used the kettle water, leave the plastic warm up then try and shape it to the correct shape, Do that as many times as you need until you get the right shape of the shell/body.

You will need to leave it in a cold place, If you don't do that, you wont be able to fit the doors.

TOOL'S AND PAINT

The paint I picked is Light Blue by Zero Paint (ZP-1296) with using Zero Paint you wont need to use Thinner's.

I also used Gloss Black by Tamiya Lacquer Paint (LP - 5), Gloss Black by Tamiya Acrylic Paint (X-18), Mr Color Leveling Thinner, Mr Color Thinner to clean the airbrouse, I used Mr Tool Cleaner R.

I used in tools are Cutter, scissers, Treasers, Masking tape, Hobby knife, Shanpie pen also some white tack. If you want to read more about these tools here also glue.

FULL BUILD

SANDING

First, You need to test fit and read the instructions to know where the parts go, How I work is test fitting and following the body/shell first, When I test fitted the body kit I used white tack, then I started to glue I used the Deluxe glue. I left it to dry for 24hr.

Then I sanded down the body/shell to allow the primer to stick better, Then I used sanding sticks to sand down the shell/body and from 180 to 3000 then I used sanding spoons with water from 400 to 3000, If you want to read more about that you can here. Then leave over night to let it all set.

CLEANING

After sanding and getting the shell ready and glued, You will need to get some soap and hot water then leave it in the water for about 1min and get it out and using clean hot water then soak, then place it on a side to dry,

I have to use a bucket to do this part but I think it's better in a sink, Here is my YouTube video of me doing this. I did this from the start and I seen it on a other YouTube video and I did try use wet wipes and the paint seem not like it, When you use hot and soapy water the paint goes down better, Then if you don't or use wet wipes, The primer seems to go down better and when it's done its smoother and look's better. But that's me and my way. You might have a better way if you do please comment.

PRIMING/PAINTING

After some minutes have past the shell of the model should be dry if not you can use a towel or your airbrush, Then after that you can but some primer down, What I do is on the first spray light coat then sand it down with 3000 if needed but most of the time it don't so do that again 3 times then the 4 time but a heaver coat down then leave for 2 day's to dry.

I have got 4 boxer's what I use to but my wet model's in to leave to dry and they ant in the way, If you want to see them here is a Instagram photo and info on it.

After 2 or 3 days with the primer setting and dry, You can paint it then, I picked Light Blue but with a colour of your picking, The way I started is the same way as a primer, Light sprays first then if needed sand down with 3000 if needed then 2 or 3 heaver coats of paint.

Then leave to dry for 1 day.

BLACK PART'S

After a day or two what I do is come back to the shell and do the black part's like the Panel Line's using Accent colour and it's black, I do there's first because it's faster to do, But I do recement leaving for some min's to dry before doing the masking up, That can make the ink run on your paint and if you don't know about it can make your paint job look bad. So leave the masking for a day or some mins.

Then come back and do the masking then using a airbrush paint the black part's there are two on top one on the front and back.

I also left my model to dry for 1 day.

CLEAR

I didn't clear this model, Someone told me on my YouTube live stream, Old/classic car's don't have clear on.

INSIDE

On this part I used new paint it was textured the idea was to add more detail, But you can paint using other colour or simple paint. and put decals on,

Doing the inside is very easy it took me about 5 hr and that's with testing and learning to use that paint, Some one said light cotes is best if not done that way the paint will crack.

that's with the glue drying, and sanding with just the 180 and 3000.

UNDER THE CAR

This part is the most time and not that fast to do this part took me over 3 hrs that is with painting and cutting and gluing,

You have to build the chassis first and that will be the parts can be confusing and it's not easy you need to work out what is what and the instructions and thats not easy also you will need to build the engine and that is also a build in itself but its easy.

Then you need to do the part's what make the car move and the way it tells you is the hard way but sadly the only way.

Then place the cab on top and place it in the gap of the chassis, it will be bit differcult but it will fit then the wheel's.

CLEAR PARTS

Please don't do what I did and that is use Zero Paint there Matt Black it work and look's great but when you come to take of the tape the paint brake's up and can make the paint crack.

Done and well done

So you have but it all together and now ready to take photo's, So well done. If you wish to share your work your welcome to. Thank you

Daniel Dudley